Aquarium Supply, Information and Set-Up

Selection

Purchase the largest aquarium that your budget and floor space will permit. The larger the aquarium, the easier it is to maintain proper water quality. Further, a larger aquarium will provide more versatility and allow a greater species selection. We do not recommend anything smaller than 55 gallons for marine aquaria other than for true reef tanks, Surface area is of primary importance. A tall aquarium, lacking in proportional length and width, regardless of total gallonage, does not provide an adequate volume to surface area ratio for oxygen, carbon dioxide exchange. Responsibility

An aquarium, regardless of the filtration involved, is not entirely self sustaining. You will have to devote twenty to thirty minutes per week to maintain your aquarium. It is more time consuming to maintain a larger aquarium, but not proportionately. If you are unwilling or unable to devote this time, you will inevitably experience problems. It is essential for the aquarist to understand the properties of water and the importance of testing and maintaining water quality. Tropical fishes are highly intolerant of poor water conditions and of sudden changes brought about by the hobbyist. Any alteration to the quality and condition of the water must be made as gradually as possible to avoid stressing the fish. Stability is as important as water quality. In addition to periodically measuring pH, there are other tests that you can and should perform to ensure that water quality remains at its optimum. Once water has been "lived in," the resultant effect of the waste products of fish respiration, fish digestion and the decomposition of uneaten food can be measured. The main component of waste products is ammonia, together with two other nitrogenous compounds, nitrite and nitrate. All three are toxic to fishes and invertebrates to varying degrees. By using the relevant test kit, you can measure the buildup of these unwanted by-products and evaluate the efficiency of your filtration system and regular partial water changes in keeping them at a minimum. Poor water quality will result in stress, disease and probable death.

Location

If you do not have an aquarium stand, be sure that the surface on which the aquarium will be placed is sturdy (water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon), level and supports the entire bottom frame of the aquarium. An unlevel surface can cause stress on the aquarium joints causing them to separate. Place the aquarium away from direct sunlight which can cause overheating, excessive algae growth and inaccurate temperature readings on external digital thermometers. Do not place an aquarium above or near a heat source, heating vent or stove. Similarly, avoid the sudden drops in temperature found near a window or air conditioning outlet. Avoid high traffic areas as the constant movement and noise will tend to stress the fish. Convenient and plentiful electrical outlets are required and a water source, inclusive of drain, within fifty feet of the aquarium is an added convenience.

Filtration

There are certain areas in an aquarium set up where "corners can be cut" and a few dollars saved. The filtration system, however, is the very heart of your simulated aquatic world and should be given first priority. Successfully maintaining aquatic animals in the home aquarium is dependent on the proper installation and maintenance of a COMPLETE water filtration system. Filtration is divided into three distinct processes, mechanical, chemical and biological, each of which serves its own specific purpose and all of which are necessary. The size and capability of the filtration system must be appropriate both for the aquarium gallonage and the number and size of the fish therein. There are power filters now available which effectively combine biological, chemical and mechanical filtration into their design. Generally these are proficient through 55 gallon capacity, will out perform undergravel filters, and are less expensive than purchasing separate biological, chemical and mechanical filters. On smaller aquariums (55 gallons and less) the power filter should have a flow rate of 4 to 5 times the tank volume per hour. On larger systems a flow rate of twice the aquarium’s volume per hour is generally acceptable. Eheim canister filters provide excellent biological, chemical and mechanical filtration combined with minimal maintenance both in terms of frequency and expense. Models are available for aquariums up to 250 gallons with wet/dry versions up to 160 gallon capacity now available. Trickle (wet/dry) filters currently provide the MOST EFFICIENT mode of biological filtration. They are available in varying sizes to accommodate aquariums up to 400 gallons. Manufacturer specifications will define individual model capacity and pump requirements. Ideally, aquariums utilizing trickle filters should also be equipped with an appropriately sized, mechanical filter to provide more efficient particulate removal. For some reason, trickle filters have become singularly associated with saltwater aquaria. This is a misconception; they are equally as efficient and advantageous to fresh water applications. We do not recommend using undergravel filters in saltwater aquariums, cichlid aquariums or those extensively adorned with live plants. Lighting

Your aquarium lighting system must accomplish two distinct tasks. First, your lighting system must have the ability to sustain life and the life functions of each of your aquarium inhabitants. Second, the artificial light in your system must make your aquarium appealing and visually enjoyable to you, the viewer. For fish only, smaller aquariums (55 gallons and less) a single strip, full spectrum fluorescent tube is sufficient. For larger aquaria, particularly those wider than 13 inches, twin tube strip lights are recommended. Heavily planted aquariums, regardless of size, should have twin tube fluorescent lighting. This will allow the aquarium to be equipped with a full spectrum bulb to properly enhance the coloration of the fish, and a plant oriented bulb providing light in the red part of the spectrum promoting photosynthesis. Gravel

With the exception of saltwater and/or African cichlid set ups, the gravel should have no buffering affect on aquarium pH. It should also have no sharp edges and should be of sufficiently small enough diameter so as not to harbor uneaten food particulate. If live plants are to be part of the aquarium decor, do not use sand as a substrate as it will compact too tightly around the root structure. Conversely, too coarse a gravel will not provide sufficient anchorage. Darker gravels generally do a better job of displaying the fish.

Setting Up

Wash the aquarium inside and out with warm tap water. Do not use detergents or glass cleaners. Wash the aquarium gravel by placing small quantities (approximately 10-15 pounds) in a clean bucket. Using a hose which has been pushed to the bottom of the bucket, vigorously stir the gravel with your hand, flushing the dirty water over the rim until the overflow water is clear and free of debris. The more thorough the preliminary cleaning, the fewer the problems with cloudy water later. Decorative rock or wood should be thoroughly rinsed under pressure. Wild collected driftwood MUST be boiled in several changes of water and immersed in water for several weeks before it is safe to use. It is best not to use driftwood in saltwater aquariums as it tends to acidify the water. Do not use seashells or coral in a freshwater aquarium. Synthetic substitutes are available. Place the undergravel filter plate(s) in the empty aquarium. If utilizing air driven filtration, use the outermost left and right water return tubes on each filter plate. Trim the return tubes so that the top of the cartridge receptacle will be approximately ¼ inch below the surface of the water. Positioning the air pump above the aquarium will prevent back siphoning during power failures. If this is not possible or desirable, an in-line check valve placed between the air pump and the aquarium will prevent back siphoning. A gang valve with one outlet per point of airline connection is required to properly balance aeration as air will seek the path of least resistance. If utilizing powerheads, use one of the inner water return tubes on each filter plate. A mini- mum of one powerhead per undergravel filter plate is required. The powerhead should be completely submersed and the flow diffuser positioned to provide maximum surface agitation. Air bubbles provided by the powerhead are more decorative than beneficial and you need not be concerned if the bubbling is interrupted or ceases altogether. Surface agitation, as controlled by the flow diffuser, provides for gaseous exchange. Backgrounds are available to conceal electrical cords, outside filters, airline tubing, etc. When applying these to the aquarium, use vinylized tape such as black electrician’s or Scotch plastic tape. Apply the background before filling the aquarium with gravel or water. Cover the assembled undergravel filter plate(s) with 3-4 inches of washed aquarium gravel (Lesser depth required without undergravel filtration). Add dechlorinator according to manufacturer’s directions. We recommend using a dechlorinator even if you have a home water purification system. The filter media becomes depleted through use and there may be sufficient chlorine present to be lethal to the fish. Chlorine is lethal at levels as low as .2 - .3 ppm (parts per million). Fill the aquarium approximately 2/3 full of temperature regulated water. If you are using tap water, allow the water to run for a few minutes before filling the aquarium so as to minimize the introduction of contaminants. Placing a saucer or flat rock in the aquarium and pouring the water onto it will prevent the gravel from being scattered. NOTE: Nashville tap water is of sufficient quality to sustain most FRESH WATER species with only the addition of a dechlorinator. Certain tap water qualities may have to be altered to support specific species and/or to stimulate spawning. Usually Nashville tap water will have a pH of 7.0 - 7.3, hardness ranging from soft to medium hard and phosphates of 1 ppm. Nitrate will be present at levels which are undetectable with aquarium test kits, but which exceed levels found in a natural reef. Summer months will provide the period of greatest and most frequent deviations from the norm. Check tap water pH before filling the aquarium, and adjust accordingly.

Position the external and/or internal power filter(s). Partially fill external filters with water. DO NOT turn the filter(s) on. Mount the aquarium heater(s) in the aquarium above the gravel to ensure adequate water circulation around them. DO NOT plug in the heater(s). Wattage requirement for conventional aquarium heaters is 4-5 watts per gallon assuming controlled, temperate room conditions. Submersible heaters are easier to conceal and provide a more even heat distribution, particularly if placed horizontally in the aquarium. For larger aquariums, generally 55 gallons and above, the use of two smaller wattage heaters is recommended. This prevents temperature differentials within the aquarium and provides a backup system should one of the heaters fail. There are a few species of fish (goldfish being the most common example) that do not require heat; room temperature being adequate. However, they do require the low temperature protection and temperature stability that a heater provides. If you are planning on an aquarium heavily stocked with live plants, heating cables are an excellent alternative to a conventional aquarium heater. Installed under the gravel, these cables will warm the gravel bottom above the water temperature. The warmed water rises to the top, which causes colder water to be pulled down from the upper part of the aquarium. In this way a constant supply of nutrients and fresh water is carried to the roots of the plants. Position plants and decorations in the aquarium. Try to minimize areas where uneaten food may accumulate and do not impede free water flow into the power filter intake. With the exception of not using toxic materials or materials which inadvertently alter the pH, there is no right or wrong in aquarium decorating. The aquarium’s intent is to be visually pleasing to you and, perhaps, to match an existing decor. In a heavily live planted aquarium it is generally advisable to place some tall plants toward the rear of the tank to hide heaters, siphons and the like. Next, rocks or driftwood will hide the lesser attractive lower plant sections as well as offer both a contrast and feeling of depth. Then, midrange plants are placed with another level of rocks or other decorations. Lastly, small foreground plants in the very front complete the descending motif and further hide the bottoms of the plants immediately to their rear. This arrangement works as well with artificial plants. As you become more knowledgeable of the hobby, you might want to alter your decorating scheme to accommodate certain species requirements/preferences. i.e., open swimming space, shelter/security, spawning sites, etc. Add aquarium salt depending upon application: (Aquarium salt reduces fish stress, adds natural electrolytes and improves gill function.) Freshwater - one tablespoon per 5 gallons of water (½ that amount if live plants are part of the aquarium decoration.) Brackish - 1-3 teaspoons per gallon of water. (Marine salt is preferable) Marine - estimated amount required for net gallonage; to be adjusted in 48-72 hours. SALT DOES NOT EVAPORATE.

Replenish salt ONLY when you have physically removed water from the aquarium.

Finish filling the aquarium until the water line is hidden by the decorative aquarium trim. Do not overfill as this can create a siphon action around the upper rim. (Not with Oceanic/Nature’s View aquariums. They are sealed to prevent capillary leak and salt creep.) Plug in the heater(s), turn on the filter(s) and balance the aeration. Ideally wait 24 hours before introducing fish into freshwater aquariums. This is primarily to insure that the aquarium temperature is correct and STABLE: 75° - 80° for most tropicals. Marine aquariums should be left operating for 72 hours before introducing fish. This is to allow for accurate, stable measurements of pH, specific gravity and temperature. Acceptable parameters for the introduction of fish are: Temperature 75-80°F; pH 8.1-8.3; Specific Gravity 1.022-1.027;

Marine Aquarium Setup Choosing the Right Aquarium: Although it is important to choose an aquarium that you think will look good in your living room, there are other equally important considerations that affect the ongoing expense as well as the health of the inhabitants.

One of the first choices you will face is whether to purchase a glass or acrylic aquarium. The differences are listed in the box below.

Acrylic vs. Glass

1. Acrylic is a better insulator than glass so a smaller heater will work for the same sized aquarium and temperature fluctuations happen slower. This is good for stability.

2. Acrylic is clearer than glass. It actually lets 14% more light through than glass.

3. Acrylic can have a much greater variety of shapes. Acrylic aquariums commonly have rounded corners (rather than seams) and usually have a more 'contemporary' look. Acrylic coffee tables and even bubble tanks (like Captain Picard's aquarium on Star Trek). 4. A disadvantage of acrylic is that it scratches much easier (be careful with inside decorations) so special cleaning pads must be used. NEVER use a brillo pad or a green pot scrubber on an acrylic aquarium.

5. Perhaps the biggest disadvantage of acrylic is the cost. Usually an acrylic aquarium will cost 2 to 3 times what a similar sized glass aquarium would.

In general we have found that stability of the environment is the most important aspect of successful fish keeping. A lot of material has been written about the ideal environment for various species of fish, which should be considered if you are planning on a species tank or know which fish you want to stock the aquarium with. The first consideration in general though, when choosing the equipment and the aquarium itself is the stabilitiy of the environment. Size of The Aquarium: Always choose the largest size that fits your living room and your budget. In a marine aquarium this is critical since the fish capacity is three to five times less than a freshwater aquarium. The amount of oxygen available is determined mainly by the amount of surface area the tank has since oxygen enters the water primarily at the surface. Although aeration, with an air stone or a power head, seems like it is directly adding oxygen to the water, most of the benefit comes from moving water from the bottom of the aquarium to the surface where oxygen is exchanged for carbon dioxide. Water movement at the surface also increases oxygenation and will generally increase the stocking capacity as well as the health of the fish. Keep in mind that airstones and power-heads can (and generally will) fail at some time or another so don't overstock an aquarium to the point that your fish will die if the power goes out for a couple of hours! It is almost always more desirable to have a few less fish that are colorful and healthy than to push the limits of the tank and risk loosing some of your fish. Not only are fish happier, but the maintenance is easier! In general, although we have seen successful marine tanks that are smaller, a 20 gallon is smallest size that we can recommend with 60 to 100 gallon tanks being much more desirable. The larger the aquarium, the greater your chance of having a successful experience.

Marine vs. Freshwater

1. Specially formulated salt must be added to the marine aquarium water. For salt we use Coralife or Instant Ocean, but any major brand will work as well. Measured with a hydrometer, specific gravity should be between 1.020 and 1.025. This is about 1/2 cup per gallon.

2. To keep the hardness and calcium at higher levels, crushed coral and/or aragonite should be used in a marine aquarium. Also, the marine aquarium decorations can be coral skeletons, shells, and other calcium containing objects.

3. The number of fish that can be safely kept in a marine aquarium is 1/3 to 1/5 that of freshwater, or about 1 inch of fish for each 5 gallons of aquarium water.

Filters and Filtration: There are three main types of filtration for marine aquaria. Several other methods that are more commonly used in reef systems can also be beneficial for fish only systems and will also be mentioned here.

Biological Filtration: This is the most important type of filtration for stability and reduction of toxic wastes. In any biological environment there will be a production of ammonia from normal respiration (fish release ammonia from their gills) and the breakdown of wastes. Ammonia is toxic to fish and in nature is reduced to nitrite by a bacteria called Nitrosonomas. Nitrite is also poisonous to fish and is further broken down into nitrate by bacteria called Nitrobacter. Nitrate is relatively harmless to fish but is a primary food for plants and algae. Frequent water changes (say 10% every week or two) will control nitrate levels. Collectively the process of turning ammonia to nitrate is called nitrification and is carried out in the presence of oxygen (aerobic conditions). Denitrification is the process where nitrates are converted to nitrogen gas in the absence of oxygen (anaerobic conditions). Denitrification is generally not of concern to the marine aquarist unless the control of nitrates is desired (See Reef Systems).

Under-gravel filters are the most common type of biological filter and work by pulling water down through a bed of gravel at the bottom of the aquarium and pulling it up through the uplift tubes. Reverse flow undergravel filters are set up to pull water from the top of the aquarium by pushing it down the uplift tubes and up through the gravel. Reverse flow filters are slightly more efficient since they take water from the top of the aquarium which contains more oxygen.

Trickle-filters: Since nitrification is more efficient in the presence of oxygen and the air contains about 20% oxygen, as compared to about 7% oxygen for water, trickle or wet/dry filters were developed in the 1980's which increased the efficiency of biological filters dramatically. They place the bacterial growing medium, filter balls with large surface areas, in the air (usually outside the aquarium) and trickle the water to be filtered over them. Many kinds, sizes, and shapes of trickle filters have been in use since they were introduced. Although many trickle filters are external devices used in a sump or hang on the back type of filters, several manufacturers including the "Sea Clear System II" aquarium contain trickle filters built into the back of the aquarium itself. The problem with trickle filters is they usually produce high levels of nitrate, and so are not often used in reef aquariums or other situations where nitrates are undesireable. Read more about nitrates here.

Live Rock and Live Sand: These are used in reef and marine systems as a biological filter. Live rock gives the added bonus of having de-nitrifying bacteria deep inside the rock to help remove nitrates. At least 2 inches of live sand should be used if used exclusively for the biological filter, live rock at 1.5 to 2.0 lbs. per gallon of water is usually recommended. Read more about live rock and sand here.

What is a mini reef?

A mini reef is an aquarium containing many of the fish, corals and invertebrates, that can be found in the earth's coral reefs. In general these aquariums are teeming with life, (even the rock that is used is called 'live rock' because of the organisms found on it), compared to the traditional marine aquarium with fish and coral skeletons for decorations. The main differences between marine "fish only" systems and reefs are listed in the box.

Marine vs. Reef 1. Filtered water, either reverse osmosis or de-ionized, is a must for the reef aquarium. (It is also a good idea for the marine system as well but is not absolutely necessary. ) 2. Reef aquarium filtration generally includes more of an attempt at controlling nitrates either through filtration like protein skimmers and denitrification filters, through the addition of live rock, or through more constant and larger water changes. It is also desirable to limit phosphates by using filtered top-off water and resins.

3. Lighting in a reef aquarium is generally much more intense as it is trying to simulate sunlight in the tropics. The spectrum is also bluer to simulate conditions at lower ocean depths. Many of the corals require light of this intensity and color to grow and flourish.

4. Several chemicals are monitored and adequate levels are maintained in a reef aquarium. These include, calcium, strontium, iodine, carbonate hardness, and trace elements.

5. Strong water currents are necessary in a reef environment to bring nutrients to many of the 'filter feeding' organisms and to carry away their waste.

The difference between a marine aquarium and a reef can be quite striking. The abundance of life in the reef aquarium provides a visual treat that makes the traditional 'fish only' marine aquarium seem almost sterile in comparison. Mini Reefs are comparatively new to the aquarium hobby. Although people had been experimenting with keeping corals, especially in "natural" systems since the early 1960's, the 1980's and early 1990's saw the beginnings of serious efforts to import, keep and breed many of the corals and invertebrates available today in most shops that carry marine and reef animals.

General Lighting

Several years ago there was a lot of talk about whether metal halide or Very High Output (VHO) fluorescent lighting was better for a reef aquarium. Having tried both types and having good results with either, we have decided that either type can give excellent results if set up and maintained properly. A general rule of thumb is to provide 5 watts per gallon of aquarium water of either fluorescent or metal halide lighting. This is adequate for corals that need high light intensity and is more than enough for those that don't. The metal halides concentrate heat in a smaller area, so if temperature is a problem, and you don't want to buy a chiller, VHO might be a better choice. Generally if you decide to use metal halide bulbs, the higher degree bulbs are better for the control of undesirable algae and the promotion of coral growth. 10,000K and even 20,000K bulbs are now available. The number "10,000K" refers to the temperature color equivalent i.e. 10,000K (10,000 degrees Kelvin) means the color output of the bulb is equivalent to a 10,000 degree sun (actually a 10,000 degree blackbody). The higher the temperature, the bluer the color of the bulb. When only 5500K metal halide bulbs were available, actinic (blue) fluorescent bulbs were often used as a supplement. Since water filters out red light, as you go deeper into the ocean the light gets bluer and so higher temperature bulbs simulate deeper ocean depths. You can actually simulate a deep reef without the high intensity bulbs by using regular 10 watt per foot actinic lighting. ("Actinic" lights are blue.)

The VHO fluorescent bulbs put out almost 3 times as much light (110 watts for a 4 foot bulb) as conventional fluorescent bulbs. Common VHO bulb colors are full spectrum (sunlight), actinic (blue), and half actinic, half full spectrum. It is generally recommended to use 1/2 to 3/4 actinic to full spectrum bulbs. Recently, the percentage of blue to full spectrum bulbs recommended has been going up. The bulbs will tend to turn red as they are used anyway, so it may be a good idea to go a little heavy on the blue when they are new.

Filtration For a general discussion of different filtration methods, see: Marine Filtration.

Live Rock and Live Sand:

Almost every reef setup is characterised by the use of live rock and live sand as the main biological filtration method. Live rock is collected directly from reefs and consists of the coral skeletons of "reef rubble" or is cultured from aged rock placed in "farms" near existing coral reef habitats. Live rock gives the added bonus of having de-nitrifying bacteria deep inside the rock to help remove nitrates. Live sand is collected from coral reef bottoms and carries many of the beneficial organisms that live in the reef substrate. Occasionally you may pick up an undesireable species, but the benefit far outweighs any disadvantage when it comes to using live rock and live sand. At least 2 inches of live sand should be used if used exclusively for the biological filter, live rock at 1.5 to 2.0 lbs. per gallon of water is usually recommended. Conventional High Tech Filtration

The first efforts at reef keeping involved using the trickle filter for biological filtration along with many high-tech add-on items to control almost every aspect of the water chemistry. Ozone is used to control the redox potential, carbon dioxide is used to provide suitable conditions for macro-algae (with some Ph control), resins are used to target specific chemicals (nitrates, phosphates) and many different additives are used. The complexities of these systems is beyond the scope of this treatise and so I will site references for further study to the interested reader. Reference (5) and reference (6) are both good volumes to read concerning the 'high tech' approach. Martin Moe's excellent books, reference (1) and (7) also go into some detail about this approach.

Berlin Method

Given the high complexity (not to mention cost!) of the conventional approach, several more natural and less expensive approaches have been tried with success. The Berlin method in general relies on live rock for biological filtration and some denitrification, and a large foam fractionator, or protein skimmer, for nitrate control. The protein skimmer will also remove many of the 'beneficial' elements so you really need to perform regular additions of strontium, iodine and trace elements in a Berlin method reef. There are no commonly available tests for iodine and trace elements, so the health of the animals must be used to monitor them. A Note of Caution: In our experience additives of any kind can spur the growth of undesirable algae if done to excess. Don't put anything in the tank if you don't know what is in it, and don't exceed the manufacturers' dosage. In general you can get by with a lot less than what is recommended. Of course the best way is to monitor the levels of these elements and only supplement them if necessary.

Temperature

The temperature in a reef system must be maintained in a range from about 72 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Usually this means 76-78 degrees with minor daily and seasonal fluctuations. The water temperature in the tropics is fairly stable so you should mimic this as much as possible. If the temperature creeps up in the summer you may consider buying a 'chiller' to keep it cool. Other ways of cooling it are to open the top of the aquarium to encourage evaporation and use a small fan inside the hood to remove heat from the lamps. With the extra evaporation, make sure and replace the lost water with fresh filtered water on a regular basis. Almost all aquariums will require a heater to maintain temperature in the winter. Buy a good thermostatically controlled heater with output capacity of about 1 to 3 watts per gallon for your reef..

Water Movement

Water movement is important in a reef environment for several reasons. Many of the corals and anemones are filter feeders, which means they get some or all of their nutrients from the water column. Currents also carry away wastes produced by these animals. Detritus should not be allowed to accumulate on the rock and substrate, another good reason for water currents. There are many different ways of simulating the water movement in an ocean environment. Some of the more interesting simulate the "surge" of water in a natural environment by pumping water to an overhead storage tank and then periodically "dumping" it back into the tank. Powerheads can also be put on timers so that varying currents can be achieved. At the very least you should have at least one good (400 gal/hr) powerhead in aquariums less than 60 gallons, and two or more in 60 gallon or larger tanks.

Choosing the Inhabitants Choosing corals, invertebrates, and fish for the aquarium is the fun part of reef keeping. It is also the most critical for survival of your pets! A great book for an introduction to the complexities of keeping reef fish and corals together is The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, by Robert Fenner. In general the best advice is to make sure the animals you are buying are compatible. For instance, the reef is not a good place for many butterfly fish since they may dine on your corals. Many triggers find crustaceans a handy mid-afternoon snack. Reefs, while allowing you to keep many more corals and invertebrates, are more restrictive on which fish you can keep so be sure you know what they eat and what they are compatible with, before buying any fish. Corals can also be chosen for their compatibility and grouped in different ways as may be found in nature such as shallow water (bright white light), or deep water (less intense, blue light) reefs. Another example is a higher nutrient reef with more leather corals, which is common in areas where rivers flow into the ocean, as compared to a low nutrient reef with more hard coral species that tolerate low nutrient conditions.

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Maintenance, Care, Feeding There has been a lot written about maintenance in a reef tank. Of course the different filtration methods require slightly different maintenance but in general there are certain guidelines which can be followed for any reef. I am going to break the maintenance into daily, weekly, monthly and yearly tasks as I have seen done in many other texts. Daily:

Check for deceased animals and remove them. Notice any leaks or other obvious problems with the aquarium or the plumbing. Also observe the health of the inhabitants and note any sudden changes in coloration or behavior. This can be an early warning sign of impending problems. Also provide top-off water (replace water that has evaporated) if the aquarium is smaller and/or once a week is not often enough due to large water loss. Weekly:

Check all chemical levels and adjust if necessary. These should include: salt, calcium, carbonate hardness, strontium, iodine. Also check for nitrates and phosphates and note any changes. Water changes of 2-5 percent can be done weekly. If you have a protein skimmer, this should be cleaned and serviced. Monthly:

Change any carbon or other resins (nitrate or phosphate removers). If not done weekly, water changes of 5-20 percent can be done monthly. Twice Yearly :

Change light bulbs. If you are using fluorescent, change them gradually one at a time to increase the light intensity slowly over a week or two period. With metal halide, you can raise the lights after changing the bulbs and gradually lower them over the course of the year.

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Problems in the Reef Hair Algae (The Dreaded)

Hair algae is probably the most common problem encountered in reef keeping. If left unchecked, it will eventually cover everything in the aquarium, and can even choke out corals. Since algae, like most plants, uses nitrates as food, it is generally believed that the culprit is high nitrates along with high phosphates and other dissolved organic nutrients. The usual remedies fall under categories:

1. Reduce nitrates - by increasing protein skimming. reducing or eliminating feeding, increased frequency of water changes and increased amount of water changed. Nitrate removing resins can also be placed in a filter where aquarium water will flow through the resin..

2. Reduce phosphates - Absolutely use filtered water: either R/O or de-ionized, (but NOT distilled) water for your top off water! Do not use distilled water since it may kill an entire reef. Because distilled water has lost all of its minerals and anything else it might have, the water molecules will bond with the fish/invertebrates that have these minerals that were lost by the water. Put phosphate remover resin in a filter. Reduce or eliminate feeding. Make sure your activated carbon is not leaching phosphate into the aquarium. You can test this by testing the aquarium water for phosphates and then dropping pellets of your activated carbon in the test tube. If it leaves blue trails as it drops to the bottom, it is leaching phosphate and should not be used in the reef!

3. Increase animals that eat algae. Tangs, clownfish, rabbitfish (foxface), some kinds of hermit crabs, like blue spotted red legged hermit crabs (or was that red spotted blue legged?) and many kinds of snails. A coral propagation facility in Idaho http://www.garf.org is a good place to obtain these animals. From personal experience we can say these guys really can do the trick!

Activated Carbon 1.6L

Ammo-chips 12 oz.

Nitra-zorb 7.4 oz.

Phos-zorb 7.4 oz.

Brown Algae (The ever present)

The brown algae that covers the glass every few days is actually a diatom that requires silicates to live. Therefore if we rid the aquarium of silicates, the brown algae will go away. This is done by using filtered water (R/O, de-ionized, NOT distilled) and by using silicate removing resins. Usually what happens is you will get a brown algae bloom in the first few weeks after fist setting up an aquarium. Sometimes it will cycle through fairly rapidly and then disappear within a few weeks or months. More commonly however, it will reduce itself slowly until it reaches equilibrium where you only have to clean the glass once per week.

Red Slime

The red slime 'algae' is actually a cyanobacteria that grows in sheets that will cover portions of the rocks and substrate. Since they live on dissolved organic compounds, the best prevention is a good protein skimmer. Since they are a bacteria, erythromycin will kill it, and is sold as red slime remover, but I would be very careful putting antibiotics in a reef system. In general you are far better off removing the source of the problem, organic compounds, than a quick cure with antibiotics. Another remedy we have seen used with success is to increase the water flow in areas where red slime grows since it will not tolerate water currents!